I love hiking, and the 26 counties north of San Francisco, with more than 50,000 square miles of sparsely populated mountains, fertile valleys, and rugged coastline, provide plenty of amazing places to visit in Northern California.
I grew up running wild in the woods of southeastern Missouri. The landscape and topography were part of my soul. Even as an adult, it’s where I felt most at peace.
I moved to Northern California when I was 37 and felt like I was on another planet. New plants and trees, real mountains, and animals to be aware of because humans aren’t necessarily at the top of the food chain here.
I also hadn’t considered anything north of San Francisco. Like many people, San Francisco was Northern California to me. But there are still another 300+ miles to the Oregon border.
Handsome Husband and I have tried to visit as many places as possible in Northern California.
Here are some of my favorite easy-to-visit places.
#1. Mattole Beach Lighthouse (Humboldt County, CA)
Mattole Beach is about 35 miles from the quaint town of Ferndale and about 250 miles up the 101 from San Francisco.
Mattole Beach is at the north end of California’s Lost Coast, a 25-mile stretch of undeveloped coastline. Adventurous hikers can start at Mattole or in the town of Shelter Cove and hike the entire trail.
You’ll find a campground, parking lot, and vault toilets at the end of Lighthouse Road. No potable water is available, so make sure to bring your own. The north trailhead for the Lost Coast is at the southwest end of the parking lot.
Things to Know
It’s usually much cooler at the ocean than just a few miles inland. And windy, so make sure to check the weather before you go. I’m writing this in early August; it’s almost 100 degrees in Sacramento and 65 at Mattole Beach.
You also won’t have reliable cell service. Make sure to have a paper map with you.
Swimming
Beaches in Northern California are a different experience from the sunny, flat, and mostly tame beaches in Southern California. They are cold, windy, often rocky, rugged, and usually not ideal for swimming.
While ocean swimming might be best left for the hardiest of souls—like Handsome Husband—the Mattole River is usually much warmer and tamer than the ocean. The river is just north of the campground and an easy quarter-mile hike.
You can also drive inland a few miles if you want to avoid the coastal marine layer. Check out Arthur W. Way County Park for a slightly warmer swimming option.
Hiking
This is the best part of Mattole Beach. There are plenty of tidepools along the beach to explore without hiking very far. But if you’re up for a bit of adventure, check out the Punta Gorda Lighthouse.
Take the Lost Coast trail south from the parking lot for 3.5 miles. This is a combination of beach and trail hiking, so be prepared. Walking on sand is challenging and will probably take longer than expected. There can also be brush along the trail, so gaiters or long pants are recommended.
This will be an all-day hike for most hikers, so plan to leave early in the day and bring adequate food and water. See my suggestions on what to carry in your pack here.
There are several places where the trail is very close to the ocean and can be covered during high tide. Check the tide chart at the trailhead or online (before you leave home) at NOAA Tide Chart.
The Bureau of Land Management manages the entire Lost Coast trail. Check out the Lost Coast page here.
Camping
The Mattole Beach Campground is first come-first served. I’ve camped here a lot and never had trouble getting a spot. Most campers are just starting or finishing the Lost Coast trail and only stay for one night. Just plan on getting to the campground early.
It can be very windy on the coast, so make sure your tent is well secured and, if possible, use your car for a windbreak.
It’s also cold at night, even in the middle of the summer. Bring warm clothes, a good coat, and a warm sleeping bag. Seriously. It gets really cold, and there’s nothing more miserable than spending all night shivering in your thin sleeping bag.
Where Else to Stay
If camping isn’t your thing, there are places to stay in Ferndale and further north in Eureka. There are also some Airbnb places scattered around the area.
Getting There
There are two routes out to Mattole Beach. Both ways have sharp turns on narrow roads, so leave your large RVs or long trailers at home. The roads are paved until the last 15 miles.
The drive from Ferndale to Mattole Beach is a twisty road through the coastal mountains out to the beach with some spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean. From Ferndale, take Mattole Road on the southwest side of town approximately 30 miles to Lighthouse Road, and turn right. Mattole Beach and Campground are at the end of the road.
Take Highway 101 north from San Francisco to Exit 663 (South Fork/Honeydew.) Turn left on the Avenue of the Giants (Hwy CA-254) over the bridge. Turn left at the sign for Honeydew and the Rockefeller Forest immediately after the bridge (Lower Bull Creek Flats Road.) Lower Bull Creek Flats Road becomes Mattole Road after 3 miles. Stay on Mattole Road for 25 miles to Lighthouse Road. Mattole Beach and Campground are at the end of the road. This route has sharper turns, so trailers of any length aren’t recommended.
Bonus
Check out the Avenue of the Giants while you’re in the area. The road winds along Highway 101, from Myers Flats to Scotia.
#2. Big Kimshew Falls (Butte County, CA)
Big Kimshew Falls is a four-step waterfall that cascades down over 100 feet. I’ve been out to the falls numerous times, and only once have there been other people visiting at the same time.
The falls are on property owned by Sierra Pacific Industries. Sierra Pacific has been generous to allow access, but remember that you are on private property and take out whatever you bring in.
This also means that there are no facilities. Be prepared to do your business in the woods. See my page on backcountry etiquette for more information.
Things to Know
Most of the road is a dirt road from Stirling City, and it’s very slow going and bumpy. You’ll need a relatively high clearance four-wheel drive vehicle. My Subaru Outback made this trip just fine. Don’t attempt this in a car that sits low.
I’d also recommend a GPS map app or device to record your track so you have a digital breadcrumb trail to follow back to civilization. I use the Guru Map app. Make sure to download the California Map. Again, you will not have reliable cell service out here. You’re Princess Leia out here. You’ll need to rescue yourself.
This also means that there are no facilities. Be prepared to do your business in the woods. See my page on backcountry etiquette for more information.
Swimming
The water in the creeks and rivers in the Sierra Nevada is snowmelt. Which means the water is cold. But it’s not so cold that you can’t get used to it. Handsome Husband will plunge right in, but it usually takes me a while to work my way in. But once I’m in, it’s a great place to swim.
There is a large deep pool at the bottom of the third step and a flat area ideal for picnicking.
Camping
There is no camping on Sierra Pacific property. The closest campgrounds are in Butte Meadows, 16 miles north of Stirling City, or Lime Saddle Campground, 10 miles south of Paradise.
Hiking
There aren’t any actual trails at Big Kimshew Falls. You can make your way along Big Kimshew Creek if you want to explore.
Where Else to Stay
There are hotels in Paradise and in the larger community of Chico along Highway 99.
Getting There
The community of Stirling City doesn’t offer much in the way of services, so if you need supplies, including gas, stop in Paradise or Magalia. Do not begin this drive without a full tank of gas. There is no cell service.
The city of Chico is about 100 miles north of Sacramento. From Chico, take Exit 383 (Skyway/Park Avenue). Follow the signs to take Skyway east to Paradise.
Stay on Skyway for 28 miles to Stirling City. After you pass the post office, look for Retson Road and Merlo Park.
Stop here and set your trip odometer. You’ll need it to know you’re making the correct turns.
Start recording your trip at this point.
- Turn right onto Retson Rd. Drive 0.2 miles to a junction.
- Continue left (on Retson Rd) and drive 5.9 miles.
- Turn left (still on Retson Rd) and drive 0.6 miles.
- Turn right (still on Retson Rd) and drive 3.1 miles.
- Turn left (Retson becomes Concow Rd) and drive 0.3 miles to a junction. (See below for a side trip)
- Turn right (still Concow Rd) and drive 3.0 miles.
- Turn left (still Concow Rd) and drive 1.3 miles to a turnoff on the right (If you get to a bridge over Big Kimshew Creek, go back 0.3 miles.)
- Turn right down this road and drive 0.2 miles to a clearing. The path down to the creek is on the left.
The falls are located at the coordinates 39.93794, -121.44492
Bonus
You can also take a detour to visit the Bald Mountain Fire Lookout. Instead of turning right on Concow Road at Step 6, take the left fork of Concow Road 0.3 miles to the Lookout. You can walk up on the lookout and get a great view of Butte, Tehama, and Plumas Counties. Backtrack to the previous junction to continue on to the falls.
The fire lookouts are no longer staffed; Cal Fire switched to cameras years ago. You can see the camera views here.
The Dixie Fire burned close to here in 2021. You’ll be able to see the burn scar to the east of the Lookout.
#3. Snowshoeing in Lassen Volcanic National Park (Shasta/Tehama Counties, CA)
Generally, if you can walk, you can snowshoe. You don’t need any special training or skills. And it’s a great outdoor winter activity to enjoy with your whole family.
Lassen Volcanic National Park is one of the least visited parks in the National Park System and worth visiting any time of year, but my favorite is winter. Once it starts to snow, the main road through the park is closed, and it’s a great place to snowshoe or cross-country ski. If you’re really adventurous, you can trek into some fantastic locations for backcountry snowboarding.
Hiking
One of my favorite snowshoe hikes is from the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center in the southwest part of the park.
Park at the Visitor Center and walk the short distance to the unplowed road. Strap on your snowshoes and make the one-mile trek to Sulphur Works.
One mile doesn’t seem very far, but it is uphill, starting at an elevation of 6700 feet and a climb of 300 feet. If you’re up for more, there are other trails to check out that branch off the main road.
The Sulphur Works is one of the places in the park where it’s apparent that you’re walking around on an active volcano. Regardless of the amount of snow elsewhere, there are places at Sulphur Works that are devoid of snow. It also gives you a dry place to sit and enjoy the view. Handsome Husband says to bring snacks because you’ll work up an appetite snowshoeing up the road.
Camping
There is winter camping available in the park at the Southwest Campground. It’s a walk-in campground for tent camping only. Other campgrounds in the area will accommodate RVs, but many campgrounds close for the winter. Make sure to check with the appropriate managing agency.
Where Else to Stay
There are hotels in the nearby community of Chester, about 30 miles east of the park.
Getting There
This depends on if anyone in your party gets carsick. We always make sure that the kids all take meclizine before heading out.
Prettiest Drive—Highway 70: The drive up Highway 70 follows the Feather River, with spectacular canyon views. However, much of the road goes through the burn scars from the Camp, North Complex, and Dixie fires. The road is occasionally closed for repairs or mudslides (or repairs from mudslides.)
Take Highway 70 from Oroville north 80 miles to the Highway 89 junction. Turn left and follow the road to Highway 36. Turn left on 36 and drive 23 miles. Turn right on 89 again into the park.
Least Curvy Drive—Highway 36: From Red Bluff, take Highway 99/36 east to the edge of town and turn north onto Highway 36. Stay on 36 for 43 miles. Turn left onto Highway 89 into the park.
Bonus
This is the general vicinity where my novel, Not So Convenient, is located. If you’re curious where the Alpine Lodge and the fictitious town of Deer Creek are located, stop at the old Gurnsey-Deer Creek Bridge. From the junction of Highways 36 and 32, go southwest on 32 for just under 1 mile.
The lodge in my novel is set here along Deer Creek.
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